Both groups are working on their projects during the lesson time. The Knit 1's have cast on their stitches and joined the first round (being careful not to twist it) . This was particularly challenging as we cast on using alternating knit and purl long tail cast on so that we have a nice finished edge for our seed stitch hat. The Take 2's have made their swatches and are almost ready to cast on some stitches to start making that sweater. So what's next? Well, unfortunately for some, a bit of math but I promise that it's not too bad and the good thing is that once you get the hang of it, you'll realize just how simple it is.
Before you can calculate how many stitches to cast on, you need to determine your gauge. The best course of action is to find a 4" patch on your swatch in the desired stitch pattern. Lay your blocked swatch on a flat surface and place your ruler on top of it. Try to place the ruler in such a way that you are not using the edge of the ruler or the swatch for your measurements. Now count the number of stitches over 4" of pattern. Remember that knit stitches are identified by the tell tale "v" and the purl stitches are the horizontal bar. ('Knit up, purl across'). It's not important to know the difference between the two right now - just make sure you count all the stitches over that four inches. It's possible to have half a stitch in your count. The number of stitches you just counted is your stitch gauge. Write it down. Turn your ruler vertically and repeat the process, but this time you're counting rows. You may find it easier to do the rows over reverse stocking stitch (or on purl stitches). When you look at it, you'll notice a row of smiles alternating with a row of frowns. Make sure you stay in the same vertical column and count each smile as a row. This is your row gauge. Write it down.
If you can't find 4" or if that particular pattern isn't 4" wide, don't worry. Count the number of rows and stitches over as large an area as you can. If you are doing a cable panel or a repeating texture that isn't 4", make note of the width of the particular panel. You will write that information into your pattern later as it will be important for knitters to test their gauge with the different textures in your pattern. Now that you've figured out your gauge, it's time for a little math. Most sweaters start with a ribbing and it is often done with a smaller needle. A general guideline is to make the ribbing 90% of the width of the body but that is up to you. Using your stitch gauge, calculate the number of stitches you will need to cast on. Here is an example:
Gauge = 20 sts/4 in = 5 sts/in
Body (finished size) = 48 in.
48 x 5 = 240 (entire body) Front/Back - 240/2 = 120.
120 x 90% = 108.
I will be working in a 2x2 rib so this works perfectly. If necessary, I can adjust this number up or down to fit the repeat of my ribbing. I am also going to use a selvedge stitch to make finishing easier so I will need to add 2 stitches (one on each end of the work). My final calculation will be 108 + 2 = 110. So I will cast on 110 stitches and start my ribbing, working the selvedge stitches in stocking stitch. A general guide for sweaters is 2.5" of ribbing but again, this is up to you. Once I have knit the ribbing, I need to increase to the total number of stitches needed for the body. For half the body (working on the back), I need 120 stitches. I have 110 but 2 of those are selvedge stitches, so I need another 12 stitches (remember the selvedge stitches are not part of the pattern). On my last row of ribbing, a wrong side row (or back), I need to increase 12 stitches evenly across it. Space out your increases and do this. In this case, I would increase a stitch every 9 stitches. I like to start the first increase before the 9th stitch so I would probably do it after about the 6th stitch, then after every 9th after that. After that is done, you need to switch to your larger needles - the ones you did the original swatch in - and start knitting the back of your sweater. It is that easy. Unless you have specific shaping for your sweater, you won't need to worry about increasing or decreasing until you get to the armholes. We'll be covering that next week - see you then!
JAS
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